Arriving Srinagar from Mumbai by air on 27th May 2012
in early afternoon, checking in at hotel, we had a late lunch and sauntered around
the Dal Gate area and TRC. With no idea as to what we should do, a stroll on Boulevard
road adjoining Dal lake was the easiest option. While walking, we were content
in watching the stationed houseboats and cruising shikaras on a placid Dal
lake. Some distance later we fell an easy prey to a smooth talking, English
speaking young Kashmiri shikara-wallah named Samir, for one hour plus cruise on
Dal lake for Rs. 500/-; we just stepped on the boat. Even before he started
rowing, his blabbering mouth was working overtime, trying to make with us a 2/3
hour deal for extra bucks, which we managed to stave off!
The shikara has a seating capacity for three in a reclining
position and on opposite side a small seat to accommodate two more. We did not
lose much time in taking our shoes off and let go our tired bodies on cushioned
comfortable seats, savoring the cool breeze blowing across the lake as the boatman
took little time to get his shikara out of the congregation of many. His
brethren, who were on a similar mission for their evening catch, looked on!
The first visual on right side was Boulevard road, considered to
be one of the posh areas in Srinagar, with high end hotels and restaurants, tourist
offices and clean footpath for pedestrians for taking their leisurely stroll.
Dal lake bifurcates as we reached a position parallel to middle
of Boulevard road and our boat took a left hand turn and followed half a dozen
of shikaras cruising lazily ahead. An ideally located hotel named Hotel Heaven
Canal looked heavenly, just over the lake bank with beautiful rose garden in
front, which any discerning tourist will fancy.
As we passed by another shikara along side, a photographer was
photo shooting a lady in Kashmiri outfit a la Sharmila Tagore from yesteryear movie 'Kashmir Ki Kali'. These are special boats with ‘Digital
Photoshop’ written across it, with a photographer at hand and some Kashmiri
outfits in its stock. Tourists carry the memory of their Dal lake cruise back
home by availing of such facilities being offered at a price.
As we chat and watch around us, the boat man trifle bored with
his rhythmic rowing, interrupts us to impart us with some info on the lake. In
his words (spoken in Hindi), “Sir, this lake is around 33 km (perhaps he means
periphery). In month of January the entire lake freeze and kids play cricket,
football and hockey. In off-season, I do weaving of shawls and carpets and also
do the selling on my own.”
Sudden excitement from boatman, “Dada, function boat, right hand
side, ooribaba!” made us crane our neck hastily to see a gigantic blue and
white function boat reserved for occasions like wedding and other social
activities and capable of accommodating 150 – 200 invitees.
We pass through a place on lake which prides in having Masjid,
hospital, medicine shop and doctor’s services.
We sight a bird gliding on the water surface near dense growth
of aquatic bushes. On query the boatman replies, “This one is Jalmurgi” and cautions, “Hold securely
your cameras. If it falls in the lake, it will not come back.” Again when
queried whether cameras fall into the lake, pat came the reply, “They fall in
thousands.” Meanwhile we pass by a guy in a small boat with fishing rod in a
quiet corner, patiently waiting for a catch.
As we were having an exciting cruise, the boatman sensed an
opportunity and once again took his chances of pushing through a deal for two
hours of boat ride. We deftly avoided the proposal and had a sudden view of an
aquatic bird similar to crane or heron perched up on a wooden stump in backdrop
of a houseboat named ironically as ‘King Of Sea’, from a very close proximity.
We pass by beautiful Nehru Garden not to be confused with Nehru
Park at the foothill of Shankaracharya hill. This portion of Dal lake is known
as Golden lake. The houseboats rentals on both sides of this waterway are anything
between Rs. 5,000/- to Rs. 15,000/- per day.
Dal lake is by all means a floating town with houseboat for
staying and floating market for purchasing any types of commodities. We caught a boat selling biscuits snacks, soft
drinks and much more.
In June / July day temperature at Srinagar goes thirty degree
plus during day time and ice cream is a welcome commodity and of course any
time is tea time. The boat serving ice creams and tea and snacks was stationed
with a few guys buying their cup of tea. But, we did not want to lose our
precious floating time.
We pass by
a large green area partly submerged in water. The boatman resumes, “This is
called floating land. Local people spread seeds of Lauki, Khira and Tomato
on it. The vegetable grows easily in this land without much fuss with water and
nutrition from lake. The whole land is tied to wooden stumps embedded in the
lake subsoil and can be shifted from one place to another location.
Some more
advice came from Boatman for not buying Kesar (Saffron) from Gulmarg, Sonmarg,
Pahalgam where it may be cheaper but will not be of original quality. Even he
requests us not to buy the same product offered by floating boat-shops on the
lake. He claims all the products like Kesar, shawls are supplied from lake side
shops even to the Srinagar markets. The
intention of the boatman was became more clear as he interjects, “The
commodities at shops lining the lake cost less as they do not have to give
taxes unlike the shops at Srinagar market.” We reached a few shops alongside
the lake, where one can hop from the boat and step on to a platform and enter
the shop; in short hop-step-shop.
We had some shopping done at Royal Kashmir of dry fruits and
Kesar. Kesar was priced at the rate of Rs. 300/- per gram. On our trip towards
Pahalgam at Pampore a few days later, we got the same product at Rs.200/- per
gram. My shopping of some stone jewelry from Farooq and Sons proved to be good
as I did not get that kind of product in other regions of Kashmir. We came
across more gorgeous looking shops but refrained from wasting our time.
Some distance later it was interesting to read the names of some
of the finest looking houseboats with fancy names – Goona Palace, Lake Palace,
Alps, Chicago, Beauty Star, New Zealand Deluxe, Almost Heaven Deluxe, New Lucky
Flower and so many other phoren
sounding names! Surely the idea is to lure the overseas tourists to houseboats
made with walnut wood having delicate designs, intricately carved, showcasing
the artistry of Kashmiri craftsmen.
We were back to our starting place, immensely happy. But the Dal
lake story does not end here. Next day in morning we travelled in our rented
car by Boulevard road and had another look at the Dal lake activities. Near the
floating post office we had a few minutes break.
The second halt was at the base of Shankaracharya hill facing
Dal lake. From here one sees the most important island and happening place in
Dal lake known as Nehru Park. Bollywood film shootings of blockbuster of yester
year like 'Kashmir Ki Kali' and not so old films like 'Gul Gule Gulfam' and 'Mission
Kashmir' were shot here.
Driving up
on tree-lined hill road on way to Shankaracharya temple with occasional view of Dal
lake as seen from elevation appeared to be more enticing. A place with a large
opening amidst the trees, has been created and named as ‘view point’ for
tourists. What an awesome view from there! The enormity of the lake is very
much apparent. Many islands and land mass around the lake is clearly visible. A
large number of houseboats on water body make a picturesque scene. Major
portion of Nehru park is visible from here and definitely looks pretty. The
distant hill with Zorawar Fort on top is faintly visible through early morning
haze.
The
shikaras moving in slow fluid motion is worth watching for hours but our tight
schedule did not permit us this luxury.
After
having our darshan at the Shankaracharya temple, where photography is
prohibited, I picked up my camera after coming to the view point once again while
going downhill, to catch up some action on the water body of Dal lake. Morning
time looked to be ideal for speed boats carrying tourists for a cruise. Some
adventurous tourists took part in water surfing, latching on to the rope hooked
on to the speed boats. We bade goodbye to Srinagar after a short sweet
overnight stay to drive to Gulamarg.
* Many
photos are of low resolution as they have been created from video clips. I have
tried to make up for that shortcoming by my words. However, viewers wishing to
have more fun and nine minutes of patience may see the video created for our
shikara ride full of interesting scenes in Dal lake and equally interesting
interaction with boatman. The video link is as follows:
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